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Digital cameras using internal flash
The Problems
Do your underwater photos turn out murky blue-green, blurry and with lots of fuzzy white spots. Don't worry, everyone starts that way.
Most new underwater photographers will try to take shots like they do above water, moving back to include a diver, some reef and maybe some fish in the frame. The results will most likely be disappointing.
Welcome to the frustrating world of underwater photography. Now, how to improve?
The Rules
The most basic rules for all underwater photography are
1. Get closer
2. Move the flash away from the lens - OK, we can't do that with a built in flash
3. Focus first by pressing the shutter button half way, compose the picture, then press all the way to take the photo.
The Solutions
Move closer
Remember you are also photographing all that water between the camera and subject. You need to be within touching distance to get sharp colourful photos.
Wide angle scenic shots. (Subject more than 1m away)
The problem here is that your inbuilt flash is too close to the lens, it will only light up the suspended particles floating in the water in front of your subject. You need to turn off or cover the flash. Use the widest zoom setting and get as close as possible to minimize the water between you and your subject.
If you have a red underwater filter it can reduce the blue green a bit. If not you will have to be content with blue green wide angle photos. You can adjust them on the computer later to some extent and greyscaling or converting to black and white works very well with wrecks.
If your camera is on Auto exposure it will use too slow a shutter speed giving blurred results. Underwater photos look better a bit darker than above water so you can dial in -0.7 or even -1.0 of EV (exposure compensation)This will give shorter shutter speeds and darker results.
Close up (Subject 30 to 60cm away) May have to set the camera on macro.
Compact cameras can produce good colourful results in this focus range as long as the water is pretty clear. The flash will bring back colours but will also light up all the suspended particles in the water. Choose a busy or highly detailed background to hide this backscatter.
Macro (Subject 10 to 30cm away) Set the camera on macro focus. (little flower symbol)
The potential for really sharp colourful shots is greatest in this range because haze and backscatter are minimized. However the close subject can introduce some extra problems.
The flash may be too bright when this close and the lens port may cast a shadow over the subject.
A diffuser or translucent plastic cover over the flash will spread and reduce the light output possibly improving results. The diffuser may need to sit out 1 or 2 cm in front of the flash to spread the light around the lens port and on to the subject.
Autofocus
Compact digitals also suffer from slow autofocus in low light conditions.
You need to half press the shutter button until autofocus is achieved then full press to take the shot.
You may even need to shine a light on the subject to help the autofocus.
To sum it all up
Move closer - I mean really close, like closer than 1m.
Wide angle - Turn the flash off. Try a red filter. Adjust exposure compensation to underexpose a bit.
Close up - Go for it, but be aware of backscatter.
Macro - May need a flash diffuser.
Autofocus - Half press to focus then shoot.
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